Melanin Isn’t a Shield: Why Sunscreen Is Essential for Dark Skin

By Dr. Tomi Mitchell

Let’s talk about something I’ve heard all my life, and maybe you have too: “Black don’t crack.” It’s catchy, it’s confident, and there’s some truth in it—our melanin-rich skin ages beautifully and gracefully. But let’s be real: that phrase, while rooted in pride, has also left many of us misinformed and unprotected. Somewhere along the way, we began to believe that our deep skin tones made us immune to sun damage. We were told melanin was our built-in sunscreen.

But let me tell you the truth, as a physician and a Black woman: melanin helps, yes—but it’s not a forcefield.

Growing up, sun protection was never a topic in my household. We focused on the essentials—keeping food on the table, paying bills, and making ends meet. Sunscreen? That was for “other people.” Skin cancer? A problem for folks who burn after five minutes in the sun. And yet, here we are, years later, realizing that what we didn’t know is costing us—in premature aging, in uneven skin tone, in late-stage diagnoses that could have been prevented.

Now that many of us can finally prioritize our health and wellness, we owe it to ourselves—and our families—to revisit these outdated beliefs and adopt practices that actually serve us.

The Myth of Melanin's Protection

Melanin, our skin’s beautiful pigment, does give us a leg up. It acts as a natural barrier, absorbing and dispersing UV radiation more efficiently than lighter skin tones. This is why we’re less likely to get sunburned—but let’s be clear: “less likely” doesn’t mean immune. What we don’t feel on the surface, we might still be experiencing beneath it. That false sense of security is part of the problem.

Here’s what many people don’t realize—skin cancer in Black and brown communities is often diagnosed at later stages, and the survival rates are lower. Why? Because of delayed diagnosis, under-screening, and the widespread belief that we’re not at risk. When I first read that melanoma, though less common in people of colour, is often deadlier in our communities, I was shocked—and frankly, angry. This is preventable. But we have to start by unlearning and re-educating.

I’ve seen patients who’ve never used sunscreen come in with sunspots, uneven skin tone, or persistent hyperpigmentation and want a quick fix. And hey, I get it. We live in a society that promises instant results. But Botox or neuromodulators won’t erase years of skin neglect. Those are supportive tools, not magic erasers. If you want to age gracefully—and yes, we deserve to—then you must build a consistent skincare routine that includes SPF.

Invisible Damage Is Still Damage

The sneaky part about UV damage is that it often doesn’t show up until much later. For us melanin-rich folks, that damage usually manifests as hyperpigmentation, dullness, loss of elasticity, and in some cases, severe conditions like actinic keratoses and skin cancers. And because our skin hides redness and irritation more effectively, we don’t always get the warning signs that lighter-skinned individuals might notice early.

So we walk around, day after day, unknowingly accumulating sun damage. Then, boom—in our 30s or 40s, we’re suddenly wondering why our skin doesn’t look even, vibrant, or smooth. Sound familiar? It’s like realizing your tires are bald after sliding through an intersection—the warning signs were there, but we didn’t know how to read them. Our skin’s brilliance doesn’t make it invincible. Our skin deserves the same, if not more, care and respect.

It breaks my heart when patients blame themselves for these changes. Let me say this loud and clear: it’s not your fault. You weren’t taught better, and you didn’t have the resources. But now you do. That’s the power of knowledge. And once you know, you can do better, not out of shame, but out of love for yourself and your future.

Understanding SPF: What Those Numbers Mean

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It measures how well a sunscreen protects you from UVB rays—the type responsible for sunburn and a major contributor to skin cancer. Let me break it down simply:

• SPF 15: Blocks about 93% of UVB rays.

• SPF 30: Blocks about 97% of UVB rays.

• SPF 50: Blocks about 98% of UVB rays.

Here’s what’s more important than the number: proper use.

• Apply generously—most people use less than half the recommended amount.

• Reapply every 2 hours, especially if you're sweating or swimming.

• Use daily—even on cloudy days or indoors near windows.

  
  

That 1% difference between SPF 30 and 50 might not seem like much, but it adds up over years of cumulative sun exposure, especially if you have issues with pigmentation or inflammation. And let’s be honest, none of us is perfect with reapplication, so that little extra buffer matters.

Why You Need Sunscreen Year-Round

Let’s put another myth to rest: you don’t only need sunscreen in the summer. UV rays don’t hibernate. They pierce through clouds, reflect off snow, and sneak through windows while you’re driving. UVA rays (the ones responsible for aging) are present year-round and can penetrate glass. So yes, even your commute or office window can be a slow drip of sun damage.

Winter sun is deceptive. You feel chilly, so you assume you’re safe. But snow reflects up to 80% of UV rays—double exposure! Ever wonder why skiers wear sunscreen? Now you know. I tell my patients to think of sunscreen like brushing their teeth: part of their everyday hygiene, not just a seasonal event.

At Bonsai Medical Aesthetics, we believe in prevention over panic. That’s why we educate every client, regardless of skin tone, on the importance of sun protection. We know that long-term skin health isn’t about quick fixes but sustainable habits. We walk with you, not shame you.

Why Medical-Grade Skincare Makes a Difference

Let’s talk results. Many over-the-counter products lack the strength or stability to address long-standing sun damage, especially in melanin-rich skin, which requires thoughtful formulations to avoid irritation or hyperpigmentation.

That’s why Bonsai offers medical-grade skincare lines like Vivier and ZO Skin Health. These products contain higher concentrations of active ingredients like stabilized Vitamin C, retinol, growth factors, and targeted brighteners that penetrate the skin and work at the cellular level.

• Vivier’s Vitamin C serums are excellent for brightening and reducing sun-induced discolouration.

• ZO’s regimens, designed by Dr. Zein Obagi, help improve tone, texture, and clarity while respecting the unique needs of darker skin.

  
  

But—and I can’t stress this enough—none of these products can do their job if you don’t use sunscreen. It's the foundation. Without it, you're constantly undoing your progress.

Using advanced skincare without sun protection is like cleaning your floors while leaving your windows open during a sandstorm. Pointless.

It’s Not Too Late to Start

I’ve had patients in their 50s tear down, feeling like they’ve “missed their chance” at healthy skin. I always tell them the same thing: You haven’t missed anything. Skin is remarkably adaptive. With the proper care—gentle exfoliation, hydration, professional treatments, and yes, sunscreen—you can see real, beautiful changes at any age.

And if you’re in your 20s or 30s? Now is the perfect time to start. You’ll thank yourself in a decade.

At Bonsai, we offer treatments tailored explicitly for deeper skin tones—from chemical peels to microneedling and laser therapies designed to treat hyperpigmentation and texture issues without risking further damage. But it all begins with prevention. It starts with protection.

Final Thoughts: Sunscreen Is Self-Respect

To my fellow kings and queens: wearing sunscreen isn’t about being afraid of the sun. It’s about being wise enough to protect what’s sacred. Your skin is a crown you wear every day. Protect it. Nourish it. Celebrate it.

And please, don’t wait until the damage shows. Don’t wait until your skin is begging for repair. Prevention is powerful. It’s self-respect in action.

So, let’s retire the myths, ditch the guilt, and build habits that honour our skin's brilliance: sunscreen every day, hydration, rest, nourishment, and love.

At Bonsai Medical Aesthetics, we’re not just in the business of beauty—we’re in the company of transformation. And transformation starts with truth.

You don’t have to go it alone.

Let’s glow—together.